The best preventative maintenance that one can do is to perform semi-annual inspections to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building, and preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money on your roof by providing a longer service life. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.

• ASPHALT SHINGLES
• BUILT-UP & MODIFIED BITUMEN
• WOOD SHAKES & SHINGLES
• SINGLE-PLY ROOFS
• SPRAYED POLYURETHANE FOAM (SPF)

Asphalt Shingles

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
• If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
• Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
• Replace any damaged shingles.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar product afterward.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
• If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local roofing contractor.
• Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local roofer to patch them.
• Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Wood Shakes and Shingles

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
• Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking.
• Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
• Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover.

Single-Ply Roofs

• Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
• Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local roofing contractor.
• Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local roofing contractor to patch them.
• Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
• Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly.
• Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF)

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration.
• Keep an eye on any blisters you see. If they get large enough that they split open, you will need to contact a foam contractor to repair them but they still should not leak.
• Any yellow exposed foam should be covered with polyurethane caulking.
• Any splits, punctures, or other forms of damage to the roof should be repaired using polyurethane caulking.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Clean out all drains and water-test to ensure they aren't plugged.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.